DIESEL SPRING SUMMER 2025
“There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed. It’s in the circularity of denim waste, and into the distressing that we build into the collection. This is the disruption of Diesel: we are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as we push the elevation of design,” says Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel.
The immersive show experience for spring/summer 2025 show is created from 14,800kg of denim scraps, to highlight the beauty of waste. The future of Diesel is circularity, a commitment to finding synergistic ways to reuse materials. For instance, denim waste is repurposed to create denim roll, used in the automotive and insulation sectors. After the show, the entire set will be reused and repurposed.
Elevating denim is what Diesel does every day. Denim micro shorts are embroidered with extra-long fringing, a length that would be impossible from regular distressing. A leather double breasted jacket is treated to look like denim, worn with distressed denim jeans with tufted front seams and embroidered fringing across the ankle. That same fringing finishes a little denim chambray slip dress, as well as embroidered fringe across the legs of denim jeans.
It's a collection all about elevation. Cotton sweatshirts, mini-dresses and tanks have necklines that look distressed: it’s actually a devoré jacquard, the cotton burnt away to the tulle beneath to create the distressed effect. Meanwhile, tailoring is constructed from a double loom jacquard: when lasered, the remaining warp and weft is seen from two different sides. It looks like it’s by chance, but everything is intentional.
Jersey tanks and long-sleeve dresses are printed with traditional Prince of Wales checks, and are bonded everywhere apart from the chest, letting the body beneath express itself. Prince of Wales checks are printed on PVC, then cut into bikinis, dresses and tailoring, each with extra-long fringing that’s integral to the garment.
The denim experiments continue: an artisanal coat is made entirely from leftover spools of denim thread, echoing the waste on the catwalk. Diesel’s super relaxed denim is reimagined using a double loom, then lasered to seem destroyed. Double loom denim is overdyed, so it looks like camel. Denim jeans appear whiskered, but it’s embossed. A floor-length monk’s coat, as well oversized jeans, are Diesel Rehab Denim, made from 100% recycled cotton incorporating scraps from Diesel’s own denim production.
Diesel prints are coated onto pleated jersey then cracked for unpredictable results on tanks, shirts and mini dresses. Double loom knits hug the body, lasered to seem distressed. Tanks and mini dresses are embossed with the impression of an overload of necklaces. Tencel denim made with Lyocell is sprayed to appear as if leather, then draped to from sleeveless mini dresses. Jersey tailoring has strong lines across the shoulder yet is super soft down the body.
Circularity in design leads to Diesel archival bandana prints being reworked and reused for a series of draped and knotted dresses and tops. These prints were coated onto pleated fabric then cracked open, creating the trompe l’oeil wrap and drape effect. An artisanal jacket and coat are constructed from wrapped and tied waste yarn, creating organic shapes as if the floral base was alive.
The Play bag is printed with an image of Diesel bandana. The Play-Double-D bag makes its debut, a sculptural take on the Play. The TRASH-D bag has its body covered with knotted bandanas. In shoes, the Lake Platform with transparent sole is either a mule or a sock boot. Trompe l’oeil boots look like skin-tight jeans or leggings caught in the metal D of a stiletto. The Diesel eyewear collection is the first developed with new licensee Luxottica. sunglasses are intentionally distressed with barreling effects, while moulded optical frames have the Trini-D-Y triple D oval in their temple.
CREDITS:
Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Styling: Ursina Gysi
Original Soundtrack Composer: Senjan Jansen
Hair: Gary Gill
Make-up: Inge Grognard for @MACcosmetics
Skincare: The Ordinary
Set Design and Art Direction: Sayan Benbady
Original Soundtrack Composer: Senjan Jansen
Casting: Establishment NY
